In 2014, developer Nat Bosa and his wife bought the Empress Hotel in Victoria for a reported $50 million. He then budgeted $30 million for renovations to the then 106 year old building. I had not stayed there since before the renovation and recently had the opportunity to do so. 

The Empress is managed by Fairmont Hotels and has a spring special for BC, Alberta & Washington residents. The rate includes parking and late (2pm) check out. Our rate was $402 plus taxes, of course. Lucky us, we had a gift script from my generous son Jackson that covered it all. A freebie. 

The Hotel is a classic with beautiful carved beams in the public areas. Our room was well appointed with a very high ceiling, king sized bed, big TV and lots of plugs for phones etc. The bathroom was small but well appointed. Huge towels and bath robes too. 

Unfortunately, my all time favourite bar, the famous Bengal Room, is no longer open, although the room is still there & used for special events. Alas, the Indian Curry Buffet is history. So we tried the Q Bar for an afternoon sip. Our waiter was wonderful. Asked if we were staying in the hotel, what room, and on his return called us by name. Nice touch. He brought complimentary Garliky Popcorn( delicious) and took our order. Two Unsworth Pinot Gris (Cowichan valley). Cold, crisp, and not too pricy for a Fairmont. Sheila spotted a blue drink on a nearby table so one was ordered. The Empress Blue Gin Martini. Smashing. Q Bar has a nice outlook to the harbour.  It’s not the Bengal to be sure but very nice with excellent service. 

We tried the Q dining room for brunch. The decor is an odd mixture of very modern juxtaposed with the dark carved beams and huge pictures of Queen Victoria. Not sure it works. However the food and service were excellent. The eggs Benny were perfect. 

It’s still the Empress but it certainly has been spruced up. In the corridors there are some fabulous photos of the hotel under construction showing the pilings the hotel is sitting on and the steel beam construction. And photos of the Royals who have visited. This photo of the Tea menu was interesting. Fifty cents for afternoon tea. It now costs over $100. Talk about inflation. 

The venerable Empress is simply a lovely place to stay if you don’t mind the price tag. Renovated and updated but maintaining the original charm. 

Just saying…

As you know, I love discovering and writing about restaurants, especially new ones. This time it’s not new but a joint in Victoria that is celebrating 45 years in business. Yes, I finally made it to Pagliacci’s. 

In 1979 a guy from New York via Los Angeles, arrived in Victoria and in partnership with his brother and another guy pooled their cash and opened this joint on Broad Street. Howie Siegel , apparently quite a character, found the first success of his life and the customers are still lined up down the street 45 years later. Not many restaurants survive that long. Even fewer have lineups. 

What a joint! It’s small, crowded, noisy and serves up some really great food. Many of the menu items are named after celebrities. 

    The Pete Rose Slider

    Bill Murray Meatballs

    The Sid Caesar

    I’ll have what she’s having

    The Hemingway

    Forest Gump

Reading the menu is such fun. 

https://www.pagliaccis.ca/#dinner-menu

We arrived before six and had a 20 minute wait outside. The place was packed! Finally we were  shown to a table for two. The tables are very close together New York or Paris Bistro style. Service is prompt. We ordered drinks.  Wine for Sheila, a NEGRONI for me. The NEGRONI’s are ON TAP. REALLY. Who does that! But it was so good I had two. 

A basket of delicious warm salty bread arrived at once. Then the entrees. Sheila chose the “The 40 Year Old Vegan”, Gnocchi with Tomato Braised Eggplant. Very substantial bowl full. Delicious. 

For me it was the 

“Hemingway Short Story” . Tortellini stuffed with Beef, Romano, Ricotta, & Parmesan cheese in a creamy bacon sauce. 

The menu says it’s the best seller. I understand why. It was fabulous, maybe the best I’ve had and I’ve had a lot. The sauce was amazing. 

What an experience. What a vibe! It really is a dining experience. And Sunday to Thursday there is live music, mostly jazz. Pag’s is a hopping place. The noise is a cacophony of sounds. If you want quiet, stay away. By the way there is also covered outdoor seating for about 20. Would be nice in the summer and quieter. 

But if you plan a visit to Victoria you must go to Pagliacci’s. You must! 

Great food, service, ambiance. 

For more about Howie.. https://www.douglasmagazine.com/howie-siegel/

https://thebastion.ca/howie-siegel-a-flavourful-life

Just saying…