What would be a great West Coast experience for a visitor from Lake Calabogie, Ontario? The MV Frances Barkley coastal freighter from Port Alberni to Bamfield, of course.  

It was an early morning start since the ship departs at 0800. Fortunately it was a perfect day.  Blue sky, warm sun and barely a breeze on the water. The ship headed west on the Alberni Inlet, a 54 Kilometre long, narrow body of water.

The ship was full with passengers and freight and stopped in Kildonan to offload propane, groceries, mail, and building supplies at several docks in this charming harbour. Below is the Kildonan Post Office.

A stop was made in Haggard Cove, a community of perhaps thirty homes and a marina with boat access only. Here, a brand new ATV was unloaded onto a floating dock which was just large enough for the vehicle and then towed to shore by a small boat. 

Arriving in BAMFIELD at noon, we had a two hour layover before our ship made the return trip. Here was the good news. Since our last visit a new lodge and restaurant has opened just overlooking the harbour. The Bamfield Inn and FLORA’S RESTAURANT has been open just a few months. What a welcome addition to this coastal village. It’s a very charming place with indoor seating and a spacious deck with a wonderful, never tiring, view of the harbour and beyond. 

We were seated on the deck which had both tables and bar type seating. Our server, Kylie, was efficient, and charming. Bob, our guest, had been craving Fish & Chips and was very pleased with his decision. A Cod Burger for Sheila and Delicious Chicken Chimichanga for me completed the order. 

The food, the service, the view and the weather were all perfect. FLORA’S is a wonderful surprise in this out of the way place. If you plan a trip on the Frances Barkley, Flora’s is a must. You can view the menu here. https://www.florasbamfield.ca

BAMFIELD is also accessible by road and our server Kylie says it’s quite a good road now. Getting to FLORA’S if you drive does require a short water taxi ride across the harbour from Bamfield East. 

https://www.facebook.com/bamfieldwatertaxi

https://www.bamfieldchamber.com/bamfield-business-directory/316-inlet-express

Just saying…

Once again my old colleague from Ontario came for a few days visit and what better idea than to take him to some Cowichan Valley wineries. It’s only a hours drive from our home to the wine country, so we pointed the Acura south until we reached the first winery. 

AVERILL CREEK Winery is located just north of Duncan on a hillside with a spectacular view looking down on Cowichan Bay in the distance. This is a delightful spot with a beautiful patio and garden which alone is worth the visit. The wines produced here are very good and they do an excellent tasting experience. We chose two different Roses which we enjoyed in the sunshine on the patio. If you are peckish a variety of snacks are available. AVERILL Creek is a highly recommended stop on any Cowichan Valley tour. For more on this winery go to https://www.averillcreek.ca

Next stop was for lunch at UNSWORTH Winery in Cobble Hill just south of Duncan. UNSWORTH was locally owned for many years but about 3 years ago Kendall-Jackson Wines from Santa Rosa, California purchased the property. As a result there is a significant expansion underway with construction of a new tasting room and wine making building. The current tasting room is on the edge of a pond with a lovely patio. 

UNSWORTH is one of the only wineries with a restaurant and it’s a good one. An old home on the property has both indoor seating and an expansive patio alongside the vineyard. Our guest chose the Tuna Tartare and warm olives which arrived with the most interesting chips. Tapioca in Squid ink.

 Sheila chose the Wicklow Salad which included shaved vegetables, tamari seeds, local cheese in a strawberry ginger dressing. Delicious! I had one of the best Grilled Chicken Sandwiches ever.

Great food, good service, charming server. On the patio on a sunny day. At a winery. What could be better. Oh, and wine too. The Unsworth Cowichan Pinot Gris. Crisp and delicious. Check out the menu here..

https://www.unsworthvineyards.com/assets/client/File/Summer menu 2024 final w za.pdf

This was my 5th or 6th visit to the Cowichan Valley wine country and I love it. Every bit as enjoyable as the Okanagan or Napa.There are a dozen wineries to visiit, each one interesting and unique.  If you’ve not done it you must. Really.

 To see all the wineries in the area look here. https://www.tourismcowichan.com/eat-drink/wineries/

Just saying…

Have you ever taken an Alaska Cruise? Well millions of folks have in recent years. This season there are 39 large Cruise ships on the Alaska Run departing from either Vancouver or Seattle. Considering the ships carry between 1000 -5000 passengers each that represents about 60,000 people or more travelling to Alaska each week. 

Here is this year’s fleet.

Noordam. Zaandam Koningsdam New Amsterdam Eurodam Westerdam 

Queen Elizabeth ll  Le Soleil. Quantum of the Seas Radiance of The Seas Brilliance of the Seas

Norwegian Jewel Norwegian Encore Norwegian Sun Norwegian Bliss Norwegian Spirit

Ruby Princess. Grand Princess. Crown Princess  Discovery Princess  Majestic Princess 

Sapphire Princess  Royal Princess Carnival Miracle. Carnival Luminosa. Celebrity Summit

Carnival Spirit. Celebrity Edge. Celebrity Solstice

Seven Seas Explorer. Silver Nova. Seaborne Odyssey. Silver Shadow  Silver Muse
Chrystal Serenity. Disney Wonder Regatta. Viking Orion Roald Amundsen 

The cruise ships use Vancouver and Seattle as home ports. Unfortunately, the Seattle based ships do not use the inside passage but go outside Vancouver Island. On the positive side, most of them stop in Victoria on the return to Seattle. Vancouver based ships use the inside passage. 

The impact of the industry on Vancouver and Victoria is significant. Victoria estimates that it’s a $360 million benefit to the local economy. For Vancouver, it’s estimated that each cruise ship visit is worth about $3 million dollars to the city. Consider there are about 600 visits per season and you can see that the numbers are huge. 

The cruise industry is an enormous financial benefit to Alaska. The city of Juneau sees about 1.7 million passengers per year who spend about $375 million. The city collects $22 million in moorage fees and taxes. Ketchikan benefits to the tune of about $188 million per season. During Covid the ships were not running and it was devastating economically for Alaska. 

Love them or not, the cruise ship industry is a fabulous economic bonus for British Columbia and Alaska. 

I’ve done the trip Alaska from Vancouver. It’s wonderful. Interesting, great scenery, relaxing, hard to beat. Doing it again in September on the Holland America ship ZAANDAM. Can’t wait! 

Just saying…

It’s been several years since I visited the GENOA BAY CAFE but today a visit from an old colleague from Texas provided the opportunity to revisit this delightful spot. Our friends, Peter & Johnna were in Victoria visiting from Dallas and wanted to meet somewhere between Victoria and PARKSVILLE. Not much is open on Tuesday but fortunately the Genoa Bay Cafe was. It was a nice drive for both parties. The road from Maple Bay to Genoa Bay is windy and rural. Lovely. 

Having visited Genoa Bay many times in my boating days I was looking forward to introducing Sheila and the Texans to this charming out of the way spot. Even though it was cloudy we were seated at a perfect corner table on the deck hanging over the water with a view of the yachts in  the marina. Our server, who was charming and efficient took our drink orders while we perused the Cafe menu. I almost ordered the Seafood Jambalaya but instead chose the Mussels in a Thai coconut curry sauce. So did everyone else. What are the odds that 4 people will all order the same thing for lunch? Wow! We were impressed. Maybe the best mussels ever. A very generous portion with lots of broth and garlic toast on the side. Absolutely delicious! Did our friends from Texas like it? Oh yes. They loved the food, the locale, the ambiance. Genoa Bay is a long, long, way from Dallas. 

The Genoa Bay Cafe is a wonderful joint. Charming, good service, excellent food in a unique on the water location. It’s certainly worth the drive. There is a store on the dock as well as a small gallery if you want to go shopping.  If you visit, take a walk down the dock and check out the visiting yachts. 

Go to the website https://www.genoabaycafe.com to look at the menu and the photos. 

Also some interesting history of Genoa Bay https://www.genoabaycafe.com/history

Just saying…

Welcome back, friends. Have not posted for a while but today finally went somewhere new and worthy of reporting. 

In east end of PARKSVILLE is a New Mexican Restaurant, JALAPEÑOS! Yes, it’s the same Jalapeños as the successful one in Nanaimo. My Toronto based son was in town and we tried it for lunch. Not bad.

Jalapeños is in a bright yellow building on Island Highway East near the big orange bridge. Inside it’s bright pink and chartreuse. Very Mexican. The joint is spotless with tables inside and out on a patio too. The menus are on the table but you order at the counter. Then the food is delivered to your table. Service was very quick and the two Mexican ladies running it were very pleasant. 

Here is the menu which includes the typical dishes one would expect.

 We chose Enchiladas with chips & Salsa to start. Excellent home made tortilla chips and really good salsa. The Enchiladas were served up with re-fried beans, rice and salad. And they were very tasty. Not fabulous but just simple tasty Mexican fare. 

Jalapeños is open for breakfast lunch and early dinner. No liquor licence so no Margaritas but a no alcohol Corona Beer filled the bill. 

If you like Mexican, it’s worth a try. I’ll go back for sure. 

Jalapeño Mexican Restaurant is at 731 Island Highway East, PARKSVILLE.

Just saying…

There is a new coffee joint in FRENCH CREEK. The Cafe 356. It’s located in the Main building at FRENCH CREEK Marina where the store used to be. Seems to be operated by the owners of the FRENCH CREEk PUB.

It is quite a nice space with indoor and outdoor seating. Since it’s also the home of the Porsche Car Club on the island it’s decorated with lots of automobile memorabilia including a beautiful Porsche 356 on display right in the cafe. If you a car fan you will enjoy this place.

They serve up coffee, some bakery good and breakfast and lunches. Here is the menu board. 

Looking for a new place for coffee with a friend? This is probably good choice. Open 7 days a week from 7 AM to 4 PM. 1025 Lee Road in FRENCH CREEK. 

Just saying… 

In 2014, developer Nat Bosa and his wife bought the Empress Hotel in Victoria for a reported $50 million. He then budgeted $30 million for renovations to the then 106 year old building. I had not stayed there since before the renovation and recently had the opportunity to do so. 

The Empress is managed by Fairmont Hotels and has a spring special for BC, Alberta & Washington residents. The rate includes parking and late (2pm) check out. Our rate was $402 plus taxes, of course. Lucky us, we had a gift script from my generous son Jackson that covered it all. A freebie. 

The Hotel is a classic with beautiful carved beams in the public areas. Our room was well appointed with a very high ceiling, king sized bed, big TV and lots of plugs for phones etc. The bathroom was small but well appointed. Huge towels and bath robes too. 

Unfortunately, my all time favourite bar, the famous Bengal Room, is no longer open, although the room is still there & used for special events. Alas, the Indian Curry Buffet is history. So we tried the Q Bar for an afternoon sip. Our waiter was wonderful. Asked if we were staying in the hotel, what room, and on his return called us by name. Nice touch. He brought complimentary Garliky Popcorn( delicious) and took our order. Two Unsworth Pinot Gris (Cowichan valley). Cold, crisp, and not too pricy for a Fairmont. Sheila spotted a blue drink on a nearby table so one was ordered. The Empress Blue Gin Martini. Smashing. Q Bar has a nice outlook to the harbour.  It’s not the Bengal to be sure but very nice with excellent service. 

We tried the Q dining room for brunch. The decor is an odd mixture of very modern juxtaposed with the dark carved beams and huge pictures of Queen Victoria. Not sure it works. However the food and service were excellent. The eggs Benny were perfect. 

It’s still the Empress but it certainly has been spruced up. In the corridors there are some fabulous photos of the hotel under construction showing the pilings the hotel is sitting on and the steel beam construction. And photos of the Royals who have visited. This photo of the Tea menu was interesting. Fifty cents for afternoon tea. It now costs over $100. Talk about inflation. 

The venerable Empress is simply a lovely place to stay if you don’t mind the price tag. Renovated and updated but maintaining the original charm. 

Just saying…

As you know, I love discovering and writing about restaurants, especially new ones. This time it’s not new but a joint in Victoria that is celebrating 45 years in business. Yes, I finally made it to Pagliacci’s. 

In 1979 a guy from New York via Los Angeles, arrived in Victoria and in partnership with his brother and another guy pooled their cash and opened this joint on Broad Street. Howie Siegel , apparently quite a character, found the first success of his life and the customers are still lined up down the street 45 years later. Not many restaurants survive that long. Even fewer have lineups. 

What a joint! It’s small, crowded, noisy and serves up some really great food. Many of the menu items are named after celebrities. 

    The Pete Rose Slider

    Bill Murray Meatballs

    The Sid Caesar

    I’ll have what she’s having

    The Hemingway

    Forest Gump

Reading the menu is such fun. 

https://www.pagliaccis.ca/#dinner-menu

We arrived before six and had a 20 minute wait outside. The place was packed! Finally we were  shown to a table for two. The tables are very close together New York or Paris Bistro style. Service is prompt. We ordered drinks.  Wine for Sheila, a NEGRONI for me. The NEGRONI’s are ON TAP. REALLY. Who does that! But it was so good I had two. 

A basket of delicious warm salty bread arrived at once. Then the entrees. Sheila chose the “The 40 Year Old Vegan”, Gnocchi with Tomato Braised Eggplant. Very substantial bowl full. Delicious. 

For me it was the 

“Hemingway Short Story” . Tortellini stuffed with Beef, Romano, Ricotta, & Parmesan cheese in a creamy bacon sauce. 

The menu says it’s the best seller. I understand why. It was fabulous, maybe the best I’ve had and I’ve had a lot. The sauce was amazing. 

What an experience. What a vibe! It really is a dining experience. And Sunday to Thursday there is live music, mostly jazz. Pag’s is a hopping place. The noise is a cacophony of sounds. If you want quiet, stay away. By the way there is also covered outdoor seating for about 20. Would be nice in the summer and quieter. 

But if you plan a visit to Victoria you must go to Pagliacci’s. You must! 

Great food, service, ambiance. 

For more about Howie.. https://www.douglasmagazine.com/howie-siegel/

https://thebastion.ca/howie-siegel-a-flavourful-life

Just saying…

Oceanside has a lot of really good spots for morning coffee and light lunches. A favourite is THE BRAZEN POPPY BAKERY CAFE in  PARKSVILLE. Located in Shelley Centre on Island Highway & Shelley Road. 

BRAZEN POPPY bake their own pastries and turn out wonderful Almond Croissants and Cinnamon Buns, Muffins, Poppy Seed Buns among other tasty and tempting treats. They also serve great coffee and excellent lattes. You order at the counter and most often your selection is delivered to your table. If the weather is good there is outdoor seating. Coffee in the sun! 

They are open for a breakfast and lunch Monday to Friday. The made to order Breakfast Skillets are a popular breakfast choice. For lunch there are soups and a variety of made to order sandwiches or burgers. 

The BRAZEN POPPY is bright, friendly place with very nice owners. It’s a great place to meet friends for coffee as I do frequently. 

Check out their website at https://brazenpoppy.ca where you can see more of their offerings. 

Lots of parking too. 

Just saying…

It had been many years since setting foot in the Beach Club Resort in PARKSVILLE. Once there for dinner and once for brunch on the beachside patio. Recently we wanted to meet brother in law, Murray for Sunday brunch so he and Jackson could catch up. Why not try the Beach Club and discover if it’s a good spot. 

We arrived at 1130 and were seated promptly at a table for 4 with a bit of a beach view. It’s really quite a nice room, nicely appointed. We were keen. Unfortunately the breakfast /brunch service shuts down at 11:00. Don’t most hotels run Sunday brunch until 1 or 2? Not this one! Rather disappointing.  

However the lunch menu looked promising. Sheila chose a Caesar Salad.  Murray selected the Seafood Chowder, Jackson the Mac & Cheese and for me the Beef Dip.

Our server was charming and efficient and the food arrived quickly. The chowder looked really good and was, as was the Mac & Cheese. Not so the salad.  A poor excuse for a Caesar Salad actually. I had a side of it with my sandwich. The Beef Dip was OK but not as good as my favourite at the CROW & GATE PUB. 

We all expected better from this restaurant and were particularly miffed at the brunch unavailability. 

You might want to try the Beach Club but for now we will give it a pass. Maybe try it for breakfast outside this summer. 

Here is the menu: https://www.beachclubbc.com/menus

Just saying…